Soqotra and Yemen

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The island of Soqotra, belonging to the Yemen though lying closer to the Somali Horn of Africa, has been called the Galapagos of the Indian Ocean. Like the natural peculiarities of the Galapagos, produced through eras of physical isolation, there are many Disney fantasy images. Images of the obese, abundant Adeniums (or Desert Rose) and Cucumber trees; the strange Dragon’s Blood tree, whose resin has been used for centuries locally and traded as Cinnabar for reddening Chinese hardwood furniture since the time of Marco Polo. The science fiction landscape haunts like a mad dream and its description is impossible…’you had to be there’, said an American Botanist in a Gatwick pub after our last visit. For me: it is one of the few places on Earth where I feel I am on another planet.

Known for its unique biodiversity and high numbers of endemic species, it is, perhaps, the people who are more unique. For centuries, before others ‘invented’ the concept, the Soqotrans, with their own language, have lived in and used their natural environment in a sustainable manner. On our first visit, I vowed never to promote tourism to the living pristine museum of Soqotra and now hope that its natural assets, including the style of the Soqotri, can be safeguarded and a balance of development may be achieved with responsible tourism. I still feel like an honoured guest on the island, whether sharing lunch with a goat herder’s family or landing at the terminal-free airport. The simple honour of learning from people who respect their environment as their, and their children’s, livelihood is a natural reawakening for our own lives so far removed from this essential symbiosis. The people and nature of Soqotra are a lesson that we all can learn from, and taking their memory home will be your most treasured souvenir.

ITINERARY

  1. Depart London, Heathrow 1855h, terminal 2, by Yemen Airways IY743.
  2. Arrive Sana’a 0720h, process visas & transfer to Taj Talha hotel. Enjoy the friendly ambience of the Medina and Souks of old Sana’a, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Sana’a has been inhabited for over 2500 years but most of its 103 mosques, 14 hammams and 6000 multi-storey pisé (rammed earth) houses are 11th century. Sana’a is a special town for strolling and finding new friends to haggle with or take tea and a shisha, or water, pipe. Visit Kawkaban and Dar al-Hajar, the 5-storey ‘Rock Palace’ Yemen’s most famous image sitting atop the protruding rock formation of Wadi Dhahr. Friday often finds colourful wedding parties in the valleys near Sana’a.
  3. Transfer to airport for 0500h to Soqotra. Arrive at 0745h. Visit the Soqotra Biodiversity Project for a briefing.
  4. Days hike over the Mujahidron pass enjoying the prolific flora to Wadi Aihaft the open-air museum, return to Hadibu.
  5. Drive, eastward to the Qalansiya, the beautiful beach at Ditwah lagoon and Bostan Kaesso escarpment, a good area for Soqotran bird life. Continue to the Dixum plateau. Drive to Firmihin on the Dixum plateau, strewn with Dragon Blood trees and huge Adeniums. There is a tranquil freshwater bathing area at nearby Wadi Daarhu.
  6. Morning to enjoy the wadi and its plants. After lunch, drive to the South coast. Camping under the clear starry sky on the beach site run by the local community on Nogad Plain in front of the Bidhulla caves, beside the Indian Ocean.
  7. After lunch drive back through the beautiful route that divides the Island to the Momi Mountains, dense with Dragon Blood and Frankincense trees. Stay at the Homihil camp site run by the local community, it boasts a shower, investigate the area with its high botanical diversity and a beautiful ‘infinity pool’ freshwater swimming opportunity.
  8. Walk across the Hamederoh ridge to the coast. Beach camping beside the extraordinary 150m-high leaned dunes at Arher d-Ifkeh, a phenomenon demonstrating the power of the monsoon winds.
  9. After breakfast, 3-hour drive to the red rock of Ras Dihamri beach for easy snorkelling or diving in the pristine clear Arabian Sea (you can stand and look underwater at teeming colourful fish) and onto Summerland Hotel in Hadibu.
  10. Depart Soqotra by IY429 at 0845h and arrive Sana’a at 1130h, transfer to Taj Talha Hotel. Relax in Sana’a. Optional farewell dinner at the most popular fish restaurant Al-Shabaini in Sana’a.

N.B. Itinerary subject to variation but every attempt will be made to maintain the content as above. There will be opportunities for the group to discuss and vote upon content within reason.

DATES: 28th Nov to 6th Dec & 17- 27th Dec 2008 & 4 -14th Feb 2009

COSTS: £1400 (single supplement £150) Includes- Yemenia Flights London Heathrow to Sana’a, Sana’a to Soqotra to Sana’a to London, B&B hotel in Sana’a, Yemen, full board on Soqotra, transfers & transport- 4WD where necessary- as mentioned in the itinerary, English-speaking guide, use of camping equipment- please bring a sleeping bag.

Excludes- Yemeni visas- obtained on arrival for $30, insurance (available through LIVE Travel at £37. Unfortunately, participants from overseas will need to obtain insurance and supply LIVE Travel with the details), services/ meals not mentioned, tips and other items of a personal nature.

ITEMS TO BRING- Camera equipment (polarizing filter, cleaning cloth, blower brush, plenty of film), mosquito repellent, walking boots or sandals, cup, swimwear, snorkelling equipment, sun cream, sun-hat, malaria prophylaxis, batteries, torch, toiletries, towel, sleeping bag, suitable dress (it is preferable for men to wear long trousers and women to dress respectfully covering at least knees and shoulders, headscarf if entering mosques) personal food and drink fancies (including alcohol which cannot be purchased locally but may be drunk in the hotel and whilst camping).

REMEMBER- Yemen is a Moslem country and dressing appropriately is respectful to their culture. Tipping drivers and luggage carriers is expected. Although their have been incidents of kidnappings in certain tribal areas on the mainland, the Yemen is a very hospitable country and first-time visitors are surprised by the warmth of the people. Those who have previously visited souks in Turkey, Morocco or Egypt will be astonished by the friendly manner shown by the traders in Sana’a. Yemenis take great care of their ‘guests’ and the likelihood of thefts and other annoyances that often plague the traveller are rare.

Soqotra is a three-day boat journey from the mainland and is served by two flights each week. These factors combined with the small, and relatively poor, population leave the stores sparse. Water, basic toiletries, tinned food, canned drinks, biscuits, bread, meat and a restricted choice of fruit and vegetables are the only products available in the main town of Hadibu. Your understanding of these constraints to the variety of meals will be appreciated although we will endeavour to make them as interesting as possible by using the excellent fresh fish that is readily available. If you are vegetarian, or if you have any other dietary needs please advise us as early as possible.

Most of our Soqotra destinations are accessible to four-wheel drive vehicles but the roads are untarred and often rocky and steep. Fortunately, distances are short and most journeys are under 3 hours. So, although the drives are bumpy (please bear this in mind if you have a bad back), they are undertaken at a leisurely pace.
 
LIVE Travel also organises Diving trips to Soqotra, please contact us for further information.

   Thank you for entrusting Phil Haines and LIVE Travel with your valuable travel custom and enjoy your journey.
+44 (0) 20 8894 6104 phil.haines@live-travel.com